Patterning with Dye
coming soon…
Bogalan or Mud Cloth
Bogolan is a traditional dyeing technique, deeply rooted in Mali. Bogalanfini cloth is typically a cotton cloth distinguished by highly contrasting black, brown and white geometric patterns. The process of Bogalan uses local clays from the Niger River region and
a leaf extract from N'galama trees (Anogeissus leiocarpa).
Bogalan is an important part of the cultural landscape of contemporary Mali.
Bogalan cloth can be seen to negotiate and distill the traditions of Mali and carry diverse yet connected meanings wherever and however it is found.
The process
Tannin rich leaves from the Ngalama tree found growing along the banks of the river Niger are used as a mordant. The fabric is mordanted by soaking the cloth in extract produced from hydrating the dried leaves. The mordanted fabric is stretched out and left to dry in the sun, once dry ,the process of creating the patterning or dyeing begins. To create the patterns a kind of reverse resist technique is used. Patterns are created by drawing directly with fermented mud onto the fabric.
The mud is collected by fisherman who dredge the shallow parts of the river Niger to harvest the mud.
The patterns are applied using a ‘binye’, a pointed iron spatula or a ‘kala’ ,a wooden stick. The mud is stored and fermented in clay pots and is applied to the fabric in a think yet liquid consistency.
The mud is left to dry on the fabric and bake in the sun , once completely dry the mud is washed off using water. The mud, rich in iron ,in combination with the tannin from the Ngalama leaves produces the deep brown black for which Bogolan textiles are known.
Deeper colour is achieved by repeating the process multiple times. A ground up stone with natural bleaching properties is applied as required where mud has stained the ground cloth , this is left to dry and then washed away.
The alchemic combination of mud and regional natural plants produces a distinct range of colours from yellow to dark brown and black.
Rebecca Hoyes
L
ondon based textile designer and researchercollaborating with textile artisans and craft communities to develop sustainable contemporary designs using time honoured craft techniques.